Pittsburgh Post-Gazette from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania • Page 87

1 it rest in peace Munch has nurtured a penchant for pastrami, a craving for corn beef, a lust for latke and lox, a churning for chopped liver. And, for years, at the corner of Douglas and Murray was Rhoda's, a New York kind of place with a restaurant, deli counter, busy to-go department and that rarest of rare setups, take-out six-packs of good beer! One day, Rhoda's disappeared, to be replaced with a newer, and Munch asserts, better deli Kazansky's. In layout, the place hasn't changed that much, except it seems brighter and neater. The wall cooler of good beer is still there, as are containers of Kazanky food like chicken soup and Mshkas and the deli counter. chicken soup connoisseur, called for a bowl of the stuff with noodles, although matzo balls were available, too.

The steamy concoction was thick with noodles, but a little too bland for her tastes. On the other hand, the expert went for the Riley's Rare sandwich roast beef, onion and bleu cheese on sourdough. Despite Munch's gender confusion, the sandwich was pronounced manly in size and taste. The selection was $7.25, the most expensive after the intriguing Sue's Salmon Pastrami and Triple Yoy, both at $7.95. The soup was a bargain at $1.60.

Later, Munch slipped back for breakfast, which is served from 8 to 11 a.m. That menu is limited to eggs, bagels and cereal plus French toast on challah. Despite a constant ringing in the ears about The big change is on the menu. How about a walnut trout salad with asiago cheese? Cashew chicken and wild rice? It's in the sandwich department where Kazansky's gets really creative. The Yoy, Double Yoy and Triple Yoy corned beef variations, the Marv Albert your teeth into this tongue on pumpernickel or Wicky's Vegetable Delight with hummus, sprouts and more of that asiago.

And, as to that rumor, it's true at this place. In several visits, Munch was treated royally and soon became disoriented. In one occasion, a Kazansky emerged from the kitchen refilling everybody's coffee. "Am I dreamin'?" wondered the grizzled gourmand. The food wasn't half bad, either.

Munch's buddy, a longtime "Check out this rumor, Munch. Word is there's so much restaurant competition in Squirrel Hill these days that some servers have even smiled at customers." The editor cupped her hand over the receiver to protect her "source," who is actually Uncle Benny, a guy she calls daily to play the numbers. "Get out," Munch answered. "The last time a waiter smiled in this town was when Paul Mellon used to dine here. But, let me take a peek up there, chief." Fact is, Munch had already been checking out the "Murray Avenue renaissance" in food places.

It's come a long way since the days of all those hole-in-the-wall pizza joints, but one worthy tradition remains the deli. Since the Weinstein era may heart disease, Munch boldly ordered the lox, eggs and onions which came with home fries and a bagel. The scrambled oeufs were fluffy and yellow and the lox-onion combo was a real eye-opener. The one disappointment were the home fines which, while tasty, were undercooked a bit. Kazansky's is a place for New York-style deli lovers, without the Manhattan attitude.

Here's a brief listing of some restaurants, both new and established, recently reviewed in Weekend magazine by Woodene Msrriman, Post-Gazette dining critic. Abate, Waterworks Mall, Freeport Road, 412-781-9550. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Sunday breakfast, 9 a.m.-1 p.m., and regular menu, 1 -1 1 p.m. Casual, family restaurant with fish, pasta and pizza specialties. Restaurant makes its own crusty peasant bread, most of the pasta and wines.

Baum Vivant, 5102 Baum Bloomfield, 412-682-2620. Hours: p.m.; until 11 p.m. Portuguese, Northern Italian and French cuisine by Toni Pais and staff. Small, narrow, New York-style restaurant. Recommended dishes: foie gras appetizer, Dover Kazansky's, 2201 Murray is open seven days a week.

Phone: 412-521-4555. sole, veal medallions, risotto and jumbo lump crab meat, Portuguese seafood casserole. Expensive. Cafe Allegro, 51 S. 12th South Side, 412-481-7788.

Hours: 5-10 p.m., or until 1 1 p.m. Friday and Saturday: Consistently first-rate restaurant featuring Riviera-style cooking and good wine list. Menu changes OFF ALL YOU CAN EAT FISH FRY $EJ50 MICHAEL'S FORBES ROOM Kaufmann's Downtown 11th floor Take a fast break from your workday with a fabulous lunch! We feature homemade soups, salad bar, sandwiches, burgers and specialty entrees. For reservations, call (412) 232-6056. Includes Choice of two: Macaroni Cheese, Stewed Tomatoes, Cole Slaw or French Fries EVERY WEDNESDAY FRIDAY DURING LENT 3-9 PM Hours: Sun.

7am-9pm, iTiP ramiiv if estaurant Lounac 50 CHAFTON INGRAM SHOPPING CENTER dining CnJJ 0 RESTAURANT Where the accent is on taste, service and atmosphere 214 North Craig Street Oakland 621-2700 Chef Louie Celebrating His 28th Year In The Same Location! Prto nrp niiinii1 I 3U urr LUiion I WHEN ANOTHER LUNCH OF EQUAL OR GREATER VALUE IS PURCHASED WITH AD. Not valid on lakraut, part Ira or holidays. I Maximum 3 coupons per table. No Promos, Offer Good 31 to 33 Works belter tlian a remote, ami ymi won't lose II between the couch cushions, g' Week, every Sunday In the Posl tiaelle. flrUkurob Pori-ftiicll desserts, too.

Amel's Restaurant, McNeilly Road at Sussex, Baldwin Township, 412-563-3466. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight, serving dinner after 5 p.m.; noon to 10 p.m. Mideastern, Mediterranean and American specialties, including several Dining With Heart selections. Reasonably priced 6am-10pm 921-5060 ton 481-4424 EAT, DRINK BE BAVARIAN FRI. FEB.

26 THE MAD BAVARIAN SAT. FEB. 27 guys immm nsoe TROY HILL NORTHSlDE PHONE 237-9402 WEDNESDAY PASTA BUFFET Buy 1 regular priced Wednesday Pasta Buffet, get 2nd at 50 off! With this coupon. Offer expires 4199. KALLMANN'S THIS IS WHERE IT GETS GOOD WEEKEND SPECIALS Sole 6.95 Shrimp Smoked Salmon Alfredo 17.95 Grilled Veal Chops 18.95 Porterhouse Steak ....28.95 LgoIi into Your Koalt! euery Atop Mount vmt It's where you'll find answers to all your health care questions.

Our weekly guide for the hody and soul delivers news for your whole family. With our fiutess features, health calendar and Dear Doctor column, there's plenty to help you feel hctter. So treat yourself riht read Your Health every Tuesday in the- Ri. Jin JJitlslmrjh. to.

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